Maximize Your Photos With The Right Film

Have you ever stood in the store, staring at the dozens of different types of film and wondering which kind you should buy? You're not alone. For many of us amateur photographers, figuring out which film to use is a challenge. “Does it really matter that much?? you may ask. The answer is YES! If you want to maximize the quality of your photographs, you should be knowledgeable about the type of film you buy for different picture-taking events. Using the wrong film speed or storing your film improperly can result in grainy, foggy, light or dark prints, ruining the record of that perfect memory. We've done some research to help you with this tough task. From speed to storage, these tips are sure to help you help you become an expert on selecting the film that's right for your photos!

Film Speed

Brookes Hunt-Gilman, a scrapbooker and avid photographer makes the following recommendation: “Make sure you get film appropriate to what you're shooting.? She advises that if you're shooting sports, you'll want a higher speed film in order to freeze the action. If you're taking portrait-like photographs, you'll want a film with a low speed that will produce clear pictures and tonality.

Choosing the right film speed according to the subject or setting you're photographing can have a huge impact on your photos. Each type of film is designed for something a little bit different. Photos of a marathon would call for a different film than a wedding, scenery shots on a vacation would require a different film than an indoor party. And what if you wanted pictures of all of these events?

Every roll of film has a number (called an ISO) or speed assigned to it, which indicates how sensitive it is to light, or how quickly it will capture light. Most commercial films range between speeds of 100 and 800.

Higher speeds (400 or 800) will capture light quicker than slower speeds so you won't need as much light to get properly exposed images. This makes them better for low light situations like indoors with no flash. Quicker speeds are also better for capturing action shots like a soccer game, as a slower speed would let the images expose for too long, resulting in blurry photos. However, this faster speed also means that there may be a greater chance of pictures being unsharp. Slower speeds (100, 200) however, will produce sharper pictures— if the camera is held steadily and the shot is taken in bright light or with a flash. Slower speeds are also great for taking portraits or for making enlargements. “Faster speeds have more grain,? explained professional photographer John McNally. Film with an ISO of 25 or 50 is fine grain, while 800 is very grainy. You have to sacrifice quality for speed. While in small prints you wouldn't see a difference, John points out, when blown up, you will see it— multiplying an image for enlargement will make the photo even grainier.

For the best quality images in a multi-purpose film, John suggests using the slowest film that works for you— 200 or 400 speed. Brookes has two favorite films that she uses regularly: Kodak Royal Gold and Kodak Max. The Royal Gold comes in 100 or 400 speeds and although more expensive than other film, she says, it produces very bright, saturated colors. Brookes also likes Kodak Max because it is extremely versatile, but not as spendy.

Not everyone would agree that there is a difference in the quality of film brands; it's a matter of personal preference. Though Brookes prefers the Kodak Royal Gold, she also says, “I don't think you have to pay a lot for film to get good quality.? She feels that you can even go with what's on sale and get quality, since the processing of the film has a lot more to do with color clarity than the brand itself. “It's worth it to pay for better processing,?she says. While stores such as Target or the supermarket may have better pricing, photography stores such as Wolf Camera or Ritz Camera may be able to offer better quality printing.

For more information on which film is right for what subjects and settings, check out the quick-reference guide below.

Conditions		Film Speed
	Outdoors, brightly-lit conditions	100 or 200
	Indoor flash photography	100
	Portraits, close-ups, still photography	100 or 200
	Extending indoor flash	200
	Multipurpose	200 or 400
	Action (sports, candids)	400 or 800
	Nightime in well-lit area	400
	Nighttime or dim light with no flash	800 or 1000

Black & White Film

Shooting black and white film can create a unique feel for your photos and also alleviate some of the stress of worrying about the colors in the background clashing with the subject, or your child wearing mismatched clothing. Removing color totally could turn a so-so photo into a nostalgic and sentimental image. The same guidelines apply to selecting a speed for black and white film as for color— faster speeds for low light or action, slower speeds for well-lit settings, flash photography or portrait type photographs. Remember that light is more important in black and white photography because the color isn't a factor. Overcast or foggy conditions will result in soft, romantic tones, while bright sunlight will produce photos full of contrast.

You may be interested in shooting black and white, but want it developed quickly. In this case, look for black and white film that states it is C-41 processing. This means that it can be processed in the same way as most rolls of color, even on a one hour machine.

Night Photography

If you're interested in taking photographs of nighttime events, there a couple things you should keep in mind. In the dark you'd want to use a higher speed film. John recommends an 800 or 1000 speed, though Brookes points out that you could probably get away with 400 in a well-lit area. “The first thing I'd do is use a tripod,?John suggests, “and maybe a cable release to keep (the camera) steady.?The main thing, he warns, is to keep the camera steady because of the high film speed.

Film Storage

The place where you store your film or your camera may also have an effect upon the quality of the images you get. “Probably the worst thing you can do is to leave your camera in a warm place and forget about it,?John warns. Brookes agrees that heat has an effect on film and can change the emulsion and colors, ruining the way it reproduces images. Places like the glove compartment or back window of a car which can get up to extreme temperatures are unsafe for cameras and film.

Keeping film in a cool place will protect it from potential damage from heat and at times prolong its life, past the expiration date printed on the package. John recommends storing film in the freezer or refrigerator. If you purchase a lot of film at once and won't use it for several months, store the extra in the freezer. If you're planning on using the film over the period of a few weeks, store it in the refrigerator like Brookes does, but if you're planning on using it over the next week or two, you can safely leave it in a cool place like your camera bag. If you store your film in the refrigerator or freezer, be sure to pull it out a couple of hours before you need to use it— this will prevent condensation from forming while it is in your camera.

You should also be cautious about where you store a roll of film even after it has been shot. Despite the fact that the pictures have already been taken, exposure to heat and humidity can degrade the images. “If you stick a roll of film in your camera and leave it for a year, the color shifts,?John explains. Heat fogging may also occur, therefore it is best to have your film processed promptly after shooting.

Exposure to airport x-ray machines can also cloud or fog film and damage the color. It is recommended that you ask to have your camera and film hand-inspected at the airport to avoid damage, particularly of faster speed films.

Ask before you buy!

Keep these guidelines in mind when you go out to purchase film— consider where you'll be using it and what you'll be shooting. When in doubt, don't be afraid to ask for assistance at your local camera store.